I found out about Pai while I was dossing about in Chiang Mai, waiting for my visa for Myanmar. It's a little town in Northern Thailand on the banks of the Pai River - known to backpackers for its hippy vibes and 'chill' atmosphere (and lured in by the stories of magic mushroom highs and pretty sunsets).
This charming little town is up there on my list of favourite places I've ever travelled. If you're looking for somewhere to kick back, enjoy the scenery, and meet people who are in no hurry to do anything, then this is the spot. Honestly, after a few weeks amongst the hectic streets of Bangkok, then the lesser-hectic but still busy Chiang Mai, this was just what I needed. I originally booked myself for two nights, but extended to five (and to this day, I wish it had been longer). I was obsessed!
As mentioned above, it's a little town in a pocket of Northern Thailand in the Mae Hong Soon Province. It blew me away with its scenery - lush green paddies, mountainous backdrops, hot springs and waterfalls. Honestly, it's a little dreamboat of a place... completely enchanting (and well worth a stopover).
🚍 It's actually so easy to get to Pai if you're already in Thailand. I was staying at the Baan Heart Hostel in Chiang Mai at the time, and they organised bus transfers for people staying at the hostel for about 160 Baht (approx £3.90!). It took 3 hours, but word to the travel sick - make sure you stock up on meds because the road there is not for the likes of us (windy AF). You can also just hop on one of the hourly bus rides from the Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station if your hostel/hotel doesn't organise transfers or if you don't value your arms and legs... drive a scooter there.
✈️ You can also fly into Pai Airport, or organise coach trips from other places across Thailand. But the easiest way to break it up - and see more of the country - is to go via Chiang Mai.
So, word on the street is the best time to visit Pai is November - February because the weather's a bit cooler, but I was there in September - and although it was a little more humid, it was fine. I'd say just avoid April-June and you'll be on to a winner.
This isn't an extensive list of things to do in Pai, because it's not the kind of place you go with a jam-packed itinerary. It's all about taking your time here, and not cramming stuff in. The best thing to do is hire a scooter (I did this from my hostel - Spicy Pai Backpackers) as it makes it so much easier to get around - and it costs next to nothing for a few days!
These are my absolute musts:
🌿 Visit the Land Split: This is such a fascinating little stop on your way back from the Pam Bok Waterfall (another goodie to add to the list, btw!). The guy who lives there used to use his land for farming, but when the tectonic plates shifted and it split his land, instead of giving up he decided to make it a tourist attraction. He's so friendly and welcoming, and once you've been for a little hike, he serves up loads of little homemade bits and pieces he's grown - and he just asks for a donation.
🌲 Pai Canyon: A deep, forest-clad canyon with numerous hiking trails - perfect for going for a bit of a walk before settling down and watching the sunset over some epic valley views.
💫 Tham Lod Cave: I was so impressed by this cave (it'd been a while since I'd been caving anywhere) and the best part was that the locals act as your guide, and the money goes directly to them to help for the upkeep of everything. You hop on a little bamboo raft and explore the inside of the caves (totally magical), and come out the other side of the mountain.
💦 Waterfall hopping: Easily one of my favourite things to do while in Asia... finding the hot springs and the waterfalls. Ignore what TLC have been saying all these years, and chase those waterfalls! Pambok, Namtok Mo Paeng and Hua Chang waterfalls for swimming and cliff jumping in the heart of the forests, and then the spa-like Sai Ngam hot springs, where you can soak in the natural thermal baths and slap on some of nature's own clay masks.
I've heard great things from backpackers about loads of the little hostels dotted around Pai (there are plenty!) but I only stayed in two... quite a feat considering I was only there for five days. Both great, both cheap - but with different vibes.
🎭 Circus Hostel: The one everyone talks about. It's like the Gilligan's of Thailand (if you've not been to Australia, then sorry about the nonsense reference). I absolutely loved it here, it was a great place for my first two nights - super sociable, great infinity pool overlooking the valley views, and the chance to try out circus acts (why not?). You can opt for the no-frills bamboo bungalows, or private rooms with AC. I'm all about the cheap and cheerful while backpacking, so I went for the first option - basic, but fine. Plus, free brekky and dinner! They'll pick you up from the bus station too, if you don't fancy the walk through the town.
🌶 Spicypai Backpackers: This was my fave. I'd done the party hostel scene quite a bit by the time I got to Pai, so I was looking for something a little more low-key. It feels like you're staying in a cluster of treehouses amongst the paddy fields, and it felt super homely. It was still social - not quite on the same scale as Circus, so it depends what you're looking for. No free dinner, but that was fine by me because the nightly food market in town was insanely good. Put that on your list!
So, let's be clear here - you need to get your ass to Northern Thailand ... I promise you won't be disappointed. Hopefully this little travel guide to Pai has given you a bit of handy info, but just reach out if you have any questions (I think I've actually got a little live chat somewhere on here👀) - because I could wax lyrical about this oasis of a place. If you've got a bit of time to explore, have a look at my 8-day itinerary for mainland Thailand.
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